How to Care for Aglaonema
|
Time to read 4 min
|
Time to read 4 min
Aglaonema, often sold as the Chinese evergreen, is a compact leafy plant with broad, pointed leaves in an enormous range of colours. Some are deep green marbled with silver, others are splashed with cream, and the newer varieties come in vivid pink and red. It stays bushy and low rather than climbing or trailing, which makes it a good choice for shelves, desks and side tables.
The genus has around two dozen species and comes from the tropical forests of Asia and New Guinea, spread across Thailand, Malaysia, the Philippines, Indonesia and southern China. It grows as an understorey plant on the shaded forest floor, in warm, humid conditions with very little direct light. That habitat is the reason it is such a reliable indoor plant: it is already adapted to low light and steady warmth.
Aglaonema is happy in low to medium indirect light, which is unusual and very useful. A north-facing window, or a spot well back from a brighter window, suits it perfectly.
The amount of light it wants depends a little on the variety. Dark green and silver marked types tolerate genuinely shady corners. Pink, red and heavily variegated types need noticeably more light to hold their colour, so give those a brighter position or the markings will fade towards green. Keep all of them out of direct sun, which scorches the leaves and leaves bleached patches.
Water your Aglaonema when the top 3 to 5cm of compost has dried out. In spring and summer that tends to mean once a week, and in autumn and winter every two to three weeks.
Check with your finger rather than watering to a schedule, because the plant slows right down in the colder months and needs much less. Water thoroughly so it drains from the bottom of the pot, then empty the saucer. Aglaonema stores some moisture in its fleshy stems, so it copes better with being slightly too dry than with sitting in wet compost.
Aglaonema does best at 50% to 60% humidity, which is close to what many homes already provide.
The preference comes from its native tropical forest floor, where the air stays moist year-round under the canopy. It is more tolerant of dry air than its relatives like Calathea, but in a very dry room, particularly in winter with the heating on, you may notice brown, crispy tips on the leaves. Grouping it with other plants, standing the pot on a tray of damp pebbles or running a humidifier nearby will keep the foliage looking clean and full.
Aglaonema grows best between 18°C and 27°C, and it likes that warmth to be consistent.
The lowest temperature it can withstand is around 15°C. Below that the leaves develop greyish or dark sunken patches from chill damage, and anything under 12°C can cause lasting harm. This is one of the more cold-sensitive houseplants, so keep it well away from draughty doorways, unheated rooms and cold glass in winter. Steady warmth matters more to it than the exact number.
Aglaonema can be propagated by division or by stem cuttings, and both are straightforward. Spring and early summer are the best times.
For division, slide the plant out of its pot and look at the base. A mature Aglaonema forms separate crowns, each with its own roots and shoots. Ease these apart by hand, or cut between them with a clean sharp knife, making sure every piece keeps a good share of roots. Pot each one into fresh compost, water it in and keep it warm and shaded while it settles.
For stem cuttings, look for an older plant that has developed a visible stem below the leaves. Cut a section of stem around 10 to 15 cm long with at least two nodes, which are the slightly raised rings where leaves once grew. Remove the lowest leaves, then stand the cutting in water or push it into damp compost with the nodes covered. Keep it warm, bright and humid, and roots should appear in three to six weeks.
Overwatering is the most common reason. If lower leaves are turning yellow and feel soft, and the compost is still damp days after you watered, the roots are staying too wet. Let the compost dry down properly before the next drink, and make sure the pot has drainage holes and is not sitting in a decorative cover full of water.
Cold is the second big cause and one that catches people out in winter. Aglaonema yellows quickly when it is kept below about 15°C or left in a draught, often with darker, greyish patches appearing alongside the yellow. Moving it to a warmer, more sheltered spot usually stops any further damage.
Rule out the simple things as well. Yellowing across the whole plant with dry, shrunken compost means it needs a thorough soak. Pale, washed out yellowing on a plant in strong light suggests too much direct sun. Slow, general yellowing through the growing season on a plant that has been in the same pot for years usually means it has run out of nutrients, so feed monthly in spring and summer with a balanced liquid houseplant feed. And one old leaf at the base turning yellow and dropping is just normal ageing.
To keep an Aglaonema looking its best, use a free draining peat free compost, repot every two to three years in spring, wipe the leaves with a damp cloth to keep them glossy, and remove any yellowing or damaged leaves right at the base with clean scissors.
Looking for colour in a shady room? Have a look at our Aglaonemas at House of Kojo, from the classic silver marbled varieties to the bright pinks and reds.
Each plant is hand-picked, carefully packed and sent with straightforward care instructions.