How to Care for Anthurium
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Time to read 4 min
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Time to read 4 min
Anthurium is the plant behind those glossy, almost waxy-looking flowers in red, pink, white and deep burgundy. The colourful part is not actually a petal at all. It is a modified leaf called a spathe, and the little tail poking out of the middle is the true flower cluster. Because those spathes last for weeks at a time, an Anthurium can look like it is in bloom for most of the year.
The genus contains around a thousand species and comes from the tropical Americas, spread across the rainforests of Mexico, Central America, Colombia, Ecuador and Brazil. Many of them grow as epiphytes, which means they perch on tree branches rather than in the ground, with their roots gripping bark and gathering moisture from the humid air. That habit is the key to their care. Anthurium roots want to be damp but never sodden, and they want plenty of air around them.
Anthurium needs bright, indirect light. A spot near an east-facing window is close to perfect, and a few metres back from a south or west-facing window works well too.
Direct sun is the thing to avoid. Growing up in the shade of a rainforest canopy means the leaves have no protection against strong sunlight, and a few hours of midday sun through glass will bleach and scorch them. On the other hand, a dark corner will keep the plant alive but stop it from flowering. If your Anthurium is healthy and green but has not produced a spathe in months, more light is usually the answer.
Water your Anthurium when the top 2 to 3 cm of compost feels dry. That tends to work out at roughly once a week in spring and summer, and every ten to fourteen days through autumn and winter.
Water thoroughly so it runs out of the drainage holes, then tip away anything that collects in the saucer. Anthurium roots are used to clinging to tree bark in open air, so they rot quickly if they sit in wet compost. A chunky, airy mix with bark or perlite in it makes this much easier to get right. If you are ever unsure, wait a day. An Anthurium recovers from being slightly too dry far more easily than from being too wet.
Anthurium prefers humidity of 60% to 80%. It comes from tropical rainforests where moisture in the air is constant, and as an epiphyte it draws a good deal of what it needs from that damp atmosphere rather than from soil alone.
Most homes sit closer to 40% to 50%, which the plant will tolerate, but you will get glossier leaves and more flowers if you raise it. Stand the pot on a tray of damp pebbles, group it with other plants so they share moisture, or keep it in a bright bathroom or kitchen where the air is naturally more humid. Brown, crispy leaf tips are usually the first sign that the air is too dry.
Anthurium is happiest between 18°C and 27°C and does not like sudden changes.
The lowest temperature it will tolerate is around 15°C. Below that, it stops growing, and anything under 12°C risks permanent damage to the leaves and roots. This is a genuinely tender tropical plant, so keep it well away from draughts, open windows in winter and cold conservatories. A steady, warm spot indoors all year round will keep it flowering.
The easiest and most reliable way to propagate an Anthurium is by division, and the best time to do it is in spring when you are repotting.
Slide the plant out of its pot and gently tease the compost away from the roots so you can see what you are working with. A mature Anthurium naturally forms separate crowns, each with its own set of leaves and roots. Ease these apart with your fingers, or cut through the base with a clean, sharp knife if they are stubborn, making sure every section keeps a decent clump of healthy roots.
Pot each division into a small pot of free-draining, bark-based compost, water it in and keep it somewhere warm, bright and humid while it recovers. Expect a few weeks of sulking before new growth appears. Climbing types with a visible stem can also be propagated from stem cuttings taken below a node with an aerial root attached, rooted in water or damp sphagnum moss.
Overwatering is the usual culprit. If the lower leaves are turning soft and yellow and the compost is still damp several days after watering, the roots are sitting too wet. Stop watering, let the top few centimetres dry out completely, and check the pot drains freely. If the plant does not recover, slide it out and look at the roots. Healthy roots are firm and pale, while rotting roots are brown, soft and smell musty. Trim those away and repot into fresh, airy compost.
Other causes are easy to identify once you know them. Yellowing with brown, crispy edges usually means the air is too dry or the plant has been sitting in a draught. A general pale yellow across the whole plant during the growing season points to hunger, so feed it every four weeks in spring and summer with a balanced houseplant feed diluted to half strength. The occasional old leaf at the base yellowing and dying back is simply the plant retiring its oldest growth, which is nothing to worry about.
To keep an Anthurium looking its best, snip off spent flowers and dead leaves at the base, repot every two years into a pot only slightly larger than the last, and wipe the leaves with a damp cloth so they stay glossy and can absorb light properly.
Fancy adding one to your collection? Explore our Anthuriums at House of Kojo, from bold flowering favourites to the rare velvet leaved varieties collectors love. Each plant is hand selected, packed with care and sent out with clear instructions so it settles into your home quickly.