How to Care for Ficus
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Time to read 4 min
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Time to read 4 min
Ficus is the genus behind some of the biggest names in houseplants. The fiddle leaf fig with its huge violin shaped leaves, the rubber plant with its thick burgundy foliage, and the weeping fig with its fine, twiggy canopy are all Ficus. They are figs, botanically speaking, and in the wild they grow into full-sized trees.
The genus is enormous, with around 850 species spread across the tropics worldwide. The fiddle leaf fig comes from the lowland rainforests of western Africa, the rubber plant from north eastern India and Southeast Asia, and the weeping fig from across southern Asia and northern Australia. Many of them begin life perched high in the branches of another tree and gradually send roots down to the ground, which tells you they are used to bright, airy positions rather than deep shade.
Ficus has a reputation for being dramatic, and it is half deserved. These plants dislike change. Move one across the room and it may drop leaves in protest. Settle it somewhere suitable and leave it there, and it will reward you for years.
It's worth knowing: cut or broken stems leak a milky white sap that irritates skin and eyes, so wash your hands after pruning.
Ficus wants bright, indirect light, and more of it than most houseplants. A spot right beside an east-facing window, or a little back from a south or west facing one, is ideal.
A few hours of gentle morning sun does no harm and often does good, particularly for rubber plants. Harsh midday sun through glass is a different matter and will scorch the leaves. Too little light is the more common problem indoors. In a dim spot a Ficus grows leggy, drops its lower leaves and loses the rich colour in variegated and burgundy varieties. Turn the pot a quarter turn every few weeks so it grows evenly rather than leaning.
Water when the top 3 to 5 cm of compost has dried out. In spring and summer, that is usually once a week, dropping to every two or three weeks through autumn and winter.
Check with a finger each time rather than watering to a schedule, since a Ficus in a bright warm room in July drinks far more than the same plant in November. Water thoroughly until it runs from the drainage holes, then let the pot drain completely. Ficus roots rot readily in standing water, and inconsistent watering, swinging between bone dry and soaking, is one of the main reasons these plants drop leaves.
Ficus is comfortable at 40% to 60% humidity, which is close to what most homes already provide.
Coming from tropical forest, it appreciates moisture in the air and responds with glossier leaves and steadier growth, but it is nowhere near as demanding as something like a Calathea. The point at which it notices is when winter heating drops the air below about 40%, when you may see brown crispy edges and increased leaf drop. Grouping plants together, using a tray of damp pebbles or running a humidifier nearby is enough to prevent that.
Ficus grows best between 18°C and 27°C and strongly prefers a steady temperature.
The lowest temperature it can withstand is around 12°C. Below that the leaves yellow and fall, and prolonged cold damages the stems. Sudden changes matter as much as the actual number, so keep it away from draughty doors, open windows in winter, and radiators that blast hot dry air at it. A cold draught is one of the fastest ways to make a fiddle leaf fig drop half its leaves.
Ficus propagates from stem cuttings, and spring or early summer is the best time.
Choose a healthy stem and cut a section around 15 cm long with two or three leaves, cutting just below a node. Remove the lowest leaf. The cut end will leak milky sap, so dab it with a tissue and let it dry for a few minutes before planting, which reduces the chance of rot.
Stand the cutting in water or push it into a damp, free draining potting mix, then keep it warm, bright and humid. Covering it loosely with a clear bag helps a great deal, as Ficus cuttings lose moisture fast through their big leaves. Roots typically take four to eight weeks. Very large leaved types like the fiddle leaf fig are often easier to propagate by air layering instead, where you wound a section of stem on the parent plant, wrap it in damp moss and plastic, and cut it off once roots form inside the wrap.
With Ficus, yellowing leaves and dropping leaves are usually the same conversation, and the usual answer is overwatering. If lower leaves turn yellow and fall while the compost stays damp for days after watering, the roots are sitting too wet. Let the top few centimetres dry properly before the next drink and make sure the pot drains freely.
Change and cold are the other two big causes, and they are specific to this genus. A Ficus that has just been moved, repotted, or brought home from the shop very often drops a batch of leaves as it adjusts. That is normal and it usually stops within a few weeks, so resist the urge to fix it by watering more. A plant in a draught or a room that dips below 12°C will yellow and drop leaves quickly, so move it somewhere sheltered and warm.
Rule out the simpler things too. Yellowing with dry, shrunken compost and limp leaves means it needs a thorough soak. Pale yellowing across the newest growth in spring and summer points to hunger, so feed monthly with a balanced liquid houseplant feed. And one or two of the oldest leaves at the base yellowing while the top of the plant grows well is just natural ageing.
The best thing you can do for a Ficus is leave it alone. Pick a bright, draught free spot and keep it there. Water on the same rhythm rather than in fits and starts. Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth every few weeks so they can use the light properly. And repot only every two or three years, in spring.
Looking for a proper statement tree? Take a look at our Ficus collection at House of Kojo, from fiddle leaf figs to rubber plants and elegant weeping figs.