How to Care for Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily)
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Time to read 4 min
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Time to read 4 min
Spathiphyllum, known to almost everyone as the peace lily, is one of the few houseplants that flowers reliably indoors in low light. It forms a neat clump of glossy, deep green leaves, and from spring onwards it sends up slim white flowers on tall stems. As with its Anthurium relatives, the white part is not a petal but a modified leaf called a spathe, wrapped around the true flower spike in the centre.
There are around forty species in the genus and most come from the tropical Americas, growing across Central and South America, with a handful of others native to Southeast Asia and the Pacific islands. In the wild they grow on the rainforest floor in deep, damp shade, often near streams. That is why they cope so well in the darker corners of a home, and why they want their compost kept consistently moist.
It is worth knowing that peace lilies contain calcium oxalate, which irritates the mouth if chewed. Keep them away from pets and small children who might have a nibble.
Peace lilies grow well in low to medium indirect light, which is exactly why they are such a popular choice for offices, hallways and north facing rooms.
They can tolerate a fairly dark corner, but there is a trade-off. In very low light, the plant may stay healthy and green but is unlikely to flower regularly. If yours has not produced a white spathe for a while, try giving it a little more light. Move it closer to a window, while keeping it out of direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves and leave dry, pale patches. A spot near a north- or east-facing window is usually ideal, providing plenty of gentle, indirect light without the risk of harsh afternoon sun.
Water when the top 2 to 3cm of compost feels dry, keeping the rest of the pot lightly moist. In spring and summer that usually means once or twice a week, dropping to once a week or less in winter.
The peace lily is unusually good at telling you when it is thirsty. The whole plant droops dramatically, leaves hanging over the sides of the pot, and then perks back up within a few hours of a thorough watering. It is tempting to use this as your watering signal, but try not to. Letting it wilt repeatedly stresses the roots and shortens the plant's life, so aim to water just before it reaches that point. Always drain the pot fully and never leave it standing in water.
Spathiphyllum prefers humidity of 50% to 60%, which most homes come close to already.
It comes from humid rainforest floor near water, so it does appreciate moist air, and higher humidity gives you glossier leaves and fewer brown tips. It is not as demanding as a Calathea, though, and it copes with ordinary household levels perfectly well. If winter heating dries your rooms out below about 40%, you may notice crispy leaf tips. Grouping plants together, a tray of damp pebbles or a humidifier nearby will sort it. A bathroom with a window is often the happiest spot in the house for one.
Peace lilies grow best between 18°C and 27°C and like a stable temperature.
The lowest temperature one can withstand is around 12°C. Below that the leaves yellow, blacken at the edges and go limp in a way they do not recover from, and sustained cold will kill the plant. Keep it away from draughty doorways and cold windowsills over winter, and never leave it outside once nights start turning chilly.
Peace lilies cannot be grown from leaf or stem cuttings, so division is the only method. Spring, when the plant is coming into active growth, is the best time, and it pairs naturally with repotting.
Water the plant the day before so it is well hydrated. Slide it out of its pot and gently brush the compost away from the roots. A mature peace lily is made up of several separate crowns, each with its own leaves and roots joined at the base. Ease these apart with your fingers, or cut between them with a clean sharp knife if they are tightly packed, making sure each section keeps at least two or three leaves and a decent clump of roots.
Pot each division into a small pot of fresh compost, using one only slightly bigger than the root ball, water it in and keep it somewhere warm and shaded while it recovers. Expect a few weeks of sulking and possibly a drooping leaf or two before it settles and starts growing again.
Overwatering is the usual cause. Soft yellow leaves low down on the plant, with compost that stays soggy for days, mean the roots are short of air. Let the top few centimetres dry before watering again and check that the pot drains properly and is not sitting in a full cover pot.
Underwatering gives a similar looking result, so check the compost before deciding. Yellow leaves with dry, shrunken soil and a badly wilted plant mean the opposite problem, and a thorough soak will usually bring it back.
A few other causes are worth ruling out. Yellow, bleached-looking leaves with dry pale patches indicate too much direct sun, so move it somewhere shadier. Brown crispy tips alongside yellowing usually point to dry air or to the minerals and chlorine in tap water, and switching to rainwater or filtered water helps. Yellowing right across the plant during the growing season can mean it is hungry, so feed monthly at half strength in spring and summer. And the oldest outer leaves yellowing and dying back one at a time while new growth comes from the centre is simply the plant's normal cycle.
To keep a peace lily looking good, snip spent flower stems right down at the base, remove yellowing leaves the same way, wipe the foliage occasionally to keep it glossy, and repot every couple of years. A slightly snug pot actually encourages more flowers, so do not rush to size up.
Want flowers in a room with very little light? Browse our peace lilies at House of Kojo, from compact desk sized plants to large floor standing specimens.