How to Care for Yucca
|
Time to read 4 min
|
Time to read 4 min
Yucca is the plant for anyone who wants something bold and low maintenance. It grows as a thick woody trunk topped with a spray of stiff, sword shaped leaves, and the indoor varieties keep that architectural shape for years with very little input from you. It is one of the toughest houseplants on the market, and it forgives a forgotten watering far more readily than most.
There are around fifty species in the genus, and they come from the hot, dry regions of the Americas, including the deserts and scrubland of the south western United States, Mexico, the Caribbean and parts of Central America. The one most often sold as a houseplant is the spineless yucca, which comes from Mexico and Guatemala and has soft leaf tips rather than the sharp spines of its desert relatives. Everything about Yucca care follows from that arid origin: lots of sun, very little water, and no fuss about humidity.
Yucca wants as much light as you can give it, and it is one of the few houseplants that genuinely enjoys direct sun. A south or west facing window is ideal, and a few hours of sun on the leaves each day will keep it compact and strong.
In lower light a Yucca will survive, but it stretches towards the window, the leaves get floppy and pale, and the gap between leaves grows longer. If you are moving a plant from a shady spot into full sun, do it over a couple of weeks so it can adjust, otherwise the leaves can scorch. Turn the pot every few weeks so it grows evenly rather than leaning.
Water your Yucca sparingly and let the compost dry out almost completely in between. In spring and summer that usually means once every two to three weeks, and in winter it can be as little as once every six weeks.
The trunk stores water, so the plant is designed to go through long dry spells. Overwatering is by far the most common way people kill a Yucca. Push your finger deep into the pot and only water when it is dry well below the surface. When you do water, water thoroughly so it runs from the drainage holes, then let the pot drain fully and never leave it standing in a saucer of water.
Yucca needs no extra humidity at all. It is perfectly happy at 30% to 40%, which is drier than most homes in winter, and it copes fine at ordinary household levels too.
This comes straight from its origins in hot, dry, open country where rainfall is seasonal and the air is arid for much of the year. The leaves are thick and waxy, built to hold on to moisture rather than absorb it from the air. There is no need for a humidifier, a pebble tray or misting, and in fact damp, stagnant air around a Yucca is more likely to cause leaf spotting than to do any good.
Indoors, Yucca is happiest between 18°C and 27°C, and it enjoys a slightly cooler rest in winter, down around 10°C to 15°C.
The lowest temperature the indoor spineless Yucca can withstand is around 7°C. It will survive brief dips close to freezing, but sustained cold combined with wet compost will rot the trunk, so keep it above 7°C to be safe. Hardier species grown in the garden are a different matter entirely, and some of those tolerate well below 0°C. If you stand your indoor Yucca outside for the summer, bring it back in before autumn nights start falling towards 7°C.
Yucca propagates readily from trunk cuttings and from offsets, and spring or early summer is the best time.
If your plant has grown too tall, cut the trunk cleanly with a saw or sharp secateurs. The leafy top can be planted straight into gritty compost as a cutting. Sections of bare trunk, cut into pieces around 20 cm long, will also root, as long as you keep them the right way up. Let the cut ends dry and callus over for a few days in a warm, airy spot before planting, which greatly reduces the risk of rot.
Push the cuttings upright into free draining compost, water lightly and place them somewhere warm and bright. Keep the compost barely moist rather than wet while they root, which typically takes four to eight weeks. The parent plant will sprout new shoots below the cut, often two or three, which gives you a bushier plant than before. Mature Yuccas also produce offsets around the base, and these can be detached with their roots and potted up individually.
Overwatering is the number one cause, and with a Yucca it is nearly always the answer. If lower leaves are turning yellow and going soft, and the compost is damp, stop watering and let the pot dry out thoroughly. Check the base of the trunk too. If it feels soft or spongy rather than firm and woody, rot has set in, and you should cut back to healthy tissue and start again from a trunk cutting.
Some yellowing is entirely normal. Yucca naturally sheds its oldest lower leaves as it grows, so a few leaves at the bottom yellowing, browning and dropping while the top of the plant looks healthy is simply the plant building its trunk. You can pull or trim these away to keep it tidy.
Other causes are worth a quick check. Yellowing with dry, shrunken compost and drooping leaves means it has gone too long without water, so soak it well. Pale, washed out leaves on a plant that has stopped growing often means not enough light. And fine yellow speckling on the leaves, especially in dry warm rooms, can indicate spider mites, so inspect the undersides.
Keep it simple and a Yucca will last for years. structions.