How to care for Ceropegia (String of Hearts)
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Time to read 4 min
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Time to read 4 min
Ceropegia woodii, sold almost everywhere as string of hearts, is one of the prettiest trailing plants you can hang in a window. Fine purple stems carry pairs of small heart-shaped leaves, marbled silver on top and flushed pink or purple underneath, and a happy plant will trail a metre or more. It also produces genuinely strange little flowers that look like tiny pink and purple lanterns.
The genus comes from Africa, Asia and Australia, and string of hearts itself is native to South Africa, Eswatini and Zimbabwe, where it scrambles over rocks and down banks in bright, dry places. It is a semi-succulent, storing water in its leaves and in a swollen tuber at the base, and it also forms small round tubers along the stems as it grows. That succulent habit is the whole key to its care: bright light and very little water.
Ceropegia wants bright light and is one of the few trailing houseplants that genuinely benefits from some direct sun. A spot right in an east or west facing window is ideal, and a few hours of gentle morning sun will bring out the silver marbling and the pink undersides.
Too little light is the most common reason a string of hearts looks disappointing. In a dim spot the stems stretch, the gaps between leaf pairs grow long and bare, the leaves shrink and the colour washes out to plain green. If yours looks sparse and stringy, move it somewhere brighter. Only very harsh summer afternoon sun through glass is worth protecting it from.
Let the compost dry out completely, then water thoroughly. In spring and summer that usually means once every two to three weeks, and in winter every four to six weeks.
Treat it more like a succulent than a tropical trailing plant. Those thick little leaves and the tuber at the base hold plenty of water in reserve, and the leaves will go slightly soft and flat when the plant genuinely wants a drink. Water until it runs from the drainage holes, then let the pot drain completely and never leave it standing in a saucer. Overwatering is by far the most common way people lose one, so when in doubt, leave it another week.
Ceropegia is perfectly happy at 40% to 50% humidity, and it needs nothing extra from you.
That comes straight from its origins in dry, rocky southern African scrub, where rain is seasonal and the air is often arid. Its leaves are thick and waxy, designed to hold water in rather than absorb it from the air. There is no need for a humidifier, a pebble tray or misting, and damp still air around the stems is more likely to cause rot than to help.
Ceropegia grows best between 18°C and 26°C and is comfortable at normal room temperature.
The lowest temperature it can withstand is around 10°C. Below that, growth stops and the leaves can develop soft dark patches, particularly if the compost is damp at the same time. Cold and wet together are what kill it, so if your home is chilly in winter, water even less than usual. Keep it away from freezing window glass, which is easy to forget with a plant that hangs in a window.
Ceropegia is very easy to propagate, and there are three good ways to do it.
The simplest is the layering method. Coil a length of stem across the surface of a pot of damp compost, still attached to the parent plant, and pin it down with a few hairpins or bent paperclips so the leaf nodes touch the soil. Keep it lightly moist and roots will form at those nodes within a few weeks. Once they have taken, cut the strand free from the parent.
You can also use the little tubers. Those round beads that form along the stems are aerial tubers, and pressing one into damp compost while still attached to the strand will produce a new plant reliably.
Stem cuttings work too. Take a strand around 10 cm long, remove the lowest pair of leaves and lay or stand it in water or damp compost with the bare nodes in contact. Roots usually appear within two to four weeks. Planting several strands in one pot gives you a full plant much faster.
Overwatering, in almost every case. Yellow leaves that feel soft, leaves dropping off at a touch, or stems going black and mushy near the compost all mean the roots have stayed too wet. Stop watering and let the pot dry out completely. If the base has already rotted, take cuttings from the healthy trailing strands straight away, because that is usually the part you can save.
Check the alternatives quickly. Yellow leaves that are also thin and wrinkled mean the plant has gone too long without water, so give it a proper soak. Pale yellow, bleached leaves indicate harsh direct afternoon sun. A batch of yellowing after a cold spell points to chill damage. And the odd leaf yellowing at the oldest end of a long strand is simply natural ageing.
If your real complaint is that the plant looks bare and stringy rather than yellow, the answer is light rather than water. Move it brighter, and trim the leggy strands back to encourage fuller growth, laying the trimmings on the compost to root as new plants.
Want something delicate that trails beautifully? Browse our Ceropegias at House of Kojo, from classic string of hearts to the paler variegated forms. Every plant is hand picked, carefully packed and sent with simple care instructions.